Abstract:
Food forms part and parcel of Filipino culture, identity, and sociality. Through nostalgia,
food may represent memories and symbolize identities. In an effort to construct a history from
below, this study explores the Chinese-influenced localities of Binondo and Sta. Cruz and
examines old eateries and restaurants in the area as unconventional sources in constructing
Manila’s post-war history. Using life history as research design, this study principally aims to
document the contemporary history of old dining venues and the experience of families as
owners and proprietors of these establishments. In exploring the use of eateries and restaurants as
sources of local history, this study also aims to situate Chinese communities in the midst of
historical transformations during the post-war period while determining various socio-cultural,
economic, and political changes in Manila at the time. The generational narratives of the families
and discussions with important cultural workers point out that notable developments during the
post-war period in the area involved the influx of Chinese migrants and the eventual decline of
Chinatown’s prominence as a place for food escapades. Despite the tumultuous times ahead,
these establishments were able to survive through community support and generational
motivation to sustain business operations. Analyzing these crucial narratives through the lens of
the social history of experiences framework, the results of the study present changing functions
of these establishments throughout the contemporary period. As a case in point, the
indigenization of Chinese food as transformed into so-called “Tsinoy” delicacies illustrates how
the Chinese community has been fully integrated into the Filipino society. A new perspective on
old eateries and restaurants as sources of information allows for another reconstruction of the
local history of Manila’s Chinatowns and fresh insights on Philippine Chinese acculturation.
